R and I spent the holiday in Atauro, an island north of Dili. Officially part of Dili district, its geographical isolation has been a mixed blessing-- it separated islanders somewhat from political violence in the past, but also from water, building materials, reliable electricity and an urban economy. It was often pressed into service as a corral for political prisoners and exiles. We came here with JB and their family to spend the holiday (Heroes Day and Feast of the Immaculate Conception). This was a good decision. The stories I'd heard about crystalline waters, dramatic drop-offs fringed by reefs so shallow you could cruise over coral just inches from your belly; the inky night sky full of sparkling constellations and the odd nebula; the sun rising before your eyes, adding brushstroke upon brushstroke of rose and amber to the swirled cloudbanks... all true. At the Eco Lodge that we stayed in, the food was delicious, the staff prompt and friendly and the toile...